Edinburgh restaurant review: Is Olive Branch offering enough to keep the peace?

Mistakes happen. Like when you peek out of the window of an evening and the square of crisp, blue sky staring back lures you into thinking it’s safe for a 30-minute dash into town, tricking you into leaving the house boot-less, big coat-less, umbrella-less… only to face a torrent of rain, sleet and hail hurled about by gale force winds five steps into your journey. I expect this is a mistake made relatively frequently in Scotland.

After quite literally battling the elements to get here, The Olive Branch shines like a peace offering from the city to its soaked and freezing residents.

It’s a tough ask to stand out among the string of mid-market eateries on Edinburgh’s Broughton Street, which is positively bursting with inviting windows and colourful store fronts (did I mention I was freezing?) but its corner location gives The Olive Branch a nice little lookout.

We’re greeted warmly and offered our pick of tables. Maybe it’s the weather or the fact that it’s early-ish on a Sunday evening but we have the place almost to ourselves. With just a handful of other diners, the restaurant is quiet and comfortable. It’s difficult to say whether this would be the case when there’s more going on – the dozen or so small tables are in relatively close quarters in this contemporary bistro.

The Olive Branch promises relaxed, affordable, Mediterranean-style dining. The menu is on the short side, but it presents a pleasing range of options and changes with the seasons. And there’s something to be said for a kitchen that picks a lane and runs with it – trying to be all things to all people is often a fool’s game. Another plus is the portion sizes: most mains can be ordered in petite to serve as a starter or a snack. Particularly handy if you’re keen on saving room for dessert (guilty).

Edinburgh restaurant review: Tattu It's very pretty but one visit to new restaurant Tattu is probably enoughNow to business. Ordering makes for a pleasant challenge: the soup of the day (sweet potato) would act as a heartening winter warmer, but the halloumi, orange and pomegranate salad with passion fruit dressing is more intriguing. I decide to put my faith in the waitress, who steers me towards the salad. Its fruitiness is refreshing and light. A sweet and moreish start to the meal.

Himself faces no such dilemma from his tastebuds and confidently plumps for crispy monkfish cheek served with Goan curry dip. Two thumbs up for the sauce, he says, but the fish might have benefited from an extra flavour in the batter.

We’re speedily and attentively served the mains. Mine’s pasta of the day: tagliatelle with roasted aubergine, courgette and crumbled feta. The pungent wafts of garlic are slightly alarming when the dish is first set down, but thankfully this doesn’t overpower the taste. I’m truly impressed with the creamy tomato sauce and a little bit sad when I take the last bite. Maybe potential for an extra large plate in the future?

The fella hasn’t said two words together since he began tucking in to his haggis bonbons, roasted lamb, tenderstem broccoli and potato rosti. Only after practically licking the plate clean does he preach the virtues of the humble yet classy haggis bonbon (“pan fried in breadcrumbs rather than deep fried in batter is the way to go, this place knows what it’s about”).

Without wanting to sound too New Age, I like the energy of this place. Recently I dined in an establishment (which shall remain nameless) on the same street where my friend and I were instructed, as we sat down, to order from the menu, because asking for alterations annoyed the chef. Harrumph.

Edinburgh restaurant review: Is the new Ting Thai Caravan on Lothian Road as good as the original?But The Olive Branch lives up to its claim of relaxed dining. Not sure about the pickled fennel? Ask for it on the side. Can’t choose a dish? Trust the waitstaff to do it for you.

And so it is with dessert.

Scratching my head once again, our server nudges me gently away from white chocolate crème brûlée with shortbread when I confess it’s more the biscuit I’m interested in than the French speciality. We land on the chocolate cake topped with chopped hazelnuts and coconut ice cream.

Himself has his eyes turned by the specials, opting for the apple and mixed berry cheesecake. A light pink mousse on a biscuit base, this is not as heavy as a New York-style. The fruit adds depth of flavour and its hue makes for a very pretty dish.

My vegan cake, meanwhile – as tends to happen with plant-based cakes or brownies – is delightfully dense and intensely chocolatey. I suspect a touch of apple sauce may be involved as a part of the substitute for egg. In any case, it more than stands up for itself as an indulgent, animal product-free cake that will satisfy the sweet tooth of diners across the dietary spectrum.

Outside the storm has abated. We leave feeling warm, well looked after and at peace with the world.

The Olive Branch

91 Broughton Street

Edinburgh EH1 3RX

0131-557 8589

theolivebranchscotland.co.uk8/10